Eight courses by the fire, written each week from what the valley gives — and an aged Gruyère course that has never left the menu.

Steam cave, cold plunge, thermal pool and sauna — the full ritual, in the spa carved into the mountain’s granite.

A day on the mountain with a guide who grew up here — first lifts, quiet runs and the right table for lunch.

Leave from the front door before sunrise and walk the larch forest as the first light reaches the peaks.

Wild garlic in spring, chanterelles in autumn — walk the slopes with our botanist and bring the basket back to the kitchen.

Twelve minutes down the valley road, the Rey family has aged Gruyère in a hillside cellar for three generations.